The Lover’s Discourse Roland Barthes

So, another Williamsburg themed post I supposed. I warn you there’s a couple more NYCish ones on the way. I had such a fantastic time.

When I was in Willamsburg I happened upon the most amazers 2nd hand book store called Spoonbill and Sugartown

The service left a little to be desired – the staff were too busy having their own conversation to be helpful and when I asked for a bag I might as well have asked for the woman’s 1st born child by the look on her face. Nevertheless, the cultural & critical theory stock was the best I’ve seen anywhere. There is one shelf in the bookshop in The Tate Modern that occasionally turns up something interesting, but this place was something else.

Whilst there I bought myself a copy of French Thinker and all round cool guy Barthes’ The Lovers Discourse

As the review on the jacket says

‘A Lover’s Discourse maybe the most detailed, painstaking anatomy of desire that we are ever likely to see or need again…The book is an ecstatic celebration of love and language and…’

Barthes is such a brilliant character, a philosopher, a semiotician, a cultural theorist, journalist, teacher; he was interested in so many different aspects of culture and everyday life – what ever captured his imagination. I found out in the foreword by Wayne Koestenbaum that Barthes was a gay man, something I didn’t know and he lived most of his life with his mother Henriette whom he was devoted to.


His Mythologies is a work I know very very well indeed. It has been a source of inspiration for my own work and thinking for over a decade of study and research and it’s a book I know like the back of my hand. The Lover’s Discourse is, I’m finding, quite hard going and I’m certainly glad of the notes at the beginning. As it says, the book is a series of linked miniatures about the different thralls of loves categories. It’s about how love ‘is a translated affair; love, Barthes proves, is not a feeling we take raw, but a condition that passes through the mediating scrim of plots, prejudices, and assumed positions’ ‘(Koestenbaum 2010 pxix)

What I adore about it, is that it’s an academic text, but at the same time it isn’t in the slightest. It’s emotional, it’s painful and there is a mediation of suffering that emerges from the words. As the reader I feel as strong sense that the author has felt something and very deeply too.

As Koestenbaum says, Barthes never wrote a novel, but this comes close. It’s critical prose. I also love the fact that the footnotes and references are so vague. Yabooshucks to the Harvard system. Away with you citation! Barthes flouts academic convention by only slight references to the thinkers, spiritual leaders, poets and philosophers he employs. For instance,the name Freud may casually appear in the left margin, but that is it. It’s up to the reader to follow this up if they care to. Bravo for Barthes! The contemporary academic writing ‘house’ style is a sore point for me. I dislike the conventions of thesis writing and how the author’s creativity and feeling is snuffed out by the academe in pursuit of convention and under the guise of objectivity that’s a nonsense anyway. I do so admire Barthes and even more now I’ve begun to read this.

Williamsburg & Brooklyn Flea

So for the last few days I’ve been an Upper East Sider, like the characters in Gossip Girl, living a 5 minute walk from The Met in this beautiful Brownstone.

Meanwhile, somewhere on The Upper East Side. You know you love me. XOXO


But I’m a woman on a budget and after being treated to a great time U.E.S I needed some low-key action and headed off on the L-train to Brooklyn.

Williamsburg really reminds me of The Brick lane / Hackney road end of Bethnal Green circa 10years ago. The area on N Avenue where the market is & Bedford Avenue with lots of shops and restaurants is fairly gentrified in a Brooklyn hipster way.

Brooklyn Flea

I spent a great day wandering around today & met a few lovely locals, who couldn’t have been nicer or more helpful.

This guy & his friend were amazing today with local info.

Once you get off the main drag it gets even more interesting.

Brooklyn or Brick Lane?


Williamsburg or London E2?

Savage Beauty

what I did this morning…

When I heard about The Savage Beauty exhibition a while back, I thought to myself what a shame it’s being held in The States and not in The U.K. I would not get to see it – money, time, and work blah blah. But I made it happen. I simply made up my mind it was not to be missed and to go. So now I’m in NYC – for various other reasons nothing to do with the exhibition – but good reasons and the best part I got to see the McQueen. I might knock up some quick self-helpy manifest your life manual in a minute! Watch out Deepak.

Absolute highlights are: the black duck feather & lace dress from a/w 2009 , really has to be seen up close to be understood. A stunning corset of lilac and silk, appliquéd with black lace. Of course the famous Kate Moss holograph set to the theme from Schindlers List by John Williams which I watched about 5Xs. But for me the exquisite cream silk tulle lace gown with resin antlers from the a/w Widows of Culloden collection blew me away. The gown is such a work or art it actually made me tearful. It sounds trite, but Alexander McQueen wasn’t just a designer, he was an artist, an inspiration, and a good East-End boy. He was a genius.

The exhibition is beautifully curated. The pieces are set in dark, atmospheric rooms, dressed in baroque cases and gilt frames. There are film installations from the catwalk shows on the ceilings and Handel’s Sarabande makes up part of the heartrending classical soundtrack in the background as one moves around the rooms.


I’m sorry there aren’t any more snaps but photography wasn’t allowed, so (ahem) I’ve noooo idea how I ended up with this image.

Fred Perry & Richard Nicoll

This is my current favourite top. It’s from the s/s Richard Nicoll /Fred Perry limited edition collection.

Colour Blocked Two Button Placket Shirt

I’ve been a Fred Perry wearer ever since I can remember & I love the fact that the brand has evolved to incorporate capsule collections for the slightly more sophisticated customer working with a designer as elegant as Nicoll. If I could, I would buy/wear almost every piece of clothing in the range. I especially love the delicate twin sets and shift dress too.

One of the things I admire about Fred Perry as a brand is that it is so inherently cool. It does such a good and clever job with it’s social media strategy working with and promoting the notion of subculture. particularly around music. The tell us your story strategy is also very clever.

I suppose all this has got me thinking about the notion of cool and also prosumers and online co-creation, all of which I discuss in my thesis. If you’re interested in reading thought provoking text on cool, I recommend the work of Poutain and Robbins’ (2001), which claims that the origins of cool lay with the cultural evolution and assimilation of Afro-American culture into the American counterculture of the 1960s, which was absorbed by the advertising industry.

‘Cool’ does not simply mean something is good though; ‘… ‘cool’ always carries an extra, often barely perceived, connotation: describing something (a record, a movie, a soft drink) as ‘cool’ rather than ‘swell’ or ‘dandy’ makes the statement, in however small a way, that the person who utters it is cool and not a nerd or a conformist’ (Poutain and Robbins 2001 p31).

And as Heath and Potter say in explaining their rebel sell thesis, ‘Cool has become the central ideology for consumer Capitalism. Think back to the last time you bought something… Why did you buy it? Probably because it was really cool’ (Heath and Potter. 2005 p193).

Anyway, I dig my top.

All hail the maxi-skirt

The season we’ve all heard about colour blocking and the 1970s look, but for me this s/s truly it’s ‘all hail the maxi-skirt’. I do so love a full skirt, but have been pondering the signification of reams of excess fabric in these times of austerity.

This is me spinning around to Minnie Riperton in the garden of earthly delights after too much fizzy stuff during one of those glorious balmy evenings we’d a few weeks ago. The skirt is one I’ve owned for years and the fabric is from the Laura Ashley archives circa 1970. I believe it’s stitched for spinning.

Will somebody wear me to the fair? Will a lady pin me in her hair? Will a child find me by a stream? Kiss my petals and weave me through a dream.

.

The Chris Cunningham Gucci advert is another worship of mine. It’s Cunningham at his most haunting and other worldly. I could watch it over and over.

Flora for Gucci by Chris Cunningham (youtube version)v I know Cunningham has done commercial work for Orange before, but whoever came up with the Gucci collaboration is a genius. On first analysis the idea of placing Gucci a fashion house that shouts establishment, tradition, classic design with Cunningham’s jittery cyber punk status is more than juxtaposition, but it works wonderfully.
And if I was a person who could spend money on new clothes then I’d be going berserk on maxi skirts at Freepeople this season. I’ve said this before, but I love the photography used by this label.

Freepeople tired maxi-skirt

A great fashion blog can be found here with a post all about maxi-skirts. Lots of nice photographs of women in their maxis. All hail.

The maxi-skirt silhouette constructs a romantic and traditional image of femininity, but an outmoded one. The covering up of the female form and the relationship of this with past eras that were much more repressive for women isn’t exactly appealing for a lot of people. But, this could be countered with an argument about the liberating possibilities of covering up the female form in an age where even female children are encourage to wear mini-skirts and invite a sexual gaze by wearing skimpy clothing.

Ultimately for me, the maxi-skirt is all about shallow aesthetics I’m afraid. It ends with the fact that the indulgence of so much fabric and dreamy shapes and outlines is well-lovely.

Urban Outfitters Brighton

I had a confusing brand experience in Urban Outfitters. I was reminded of that ‘I saw you coming’ Harry Enfield sketch where he dupes an upper middle class lady into buying objects for astronomical prices , which he’s picked up at a car boot sale for peanuts.

Urban Outfitters opened in Brighton back in November taking over the old Borders bookshop (R.I.P) space in Churchill Square. I’ve managed to avoid thus far as that particular entry point to Churchill always makes me feel like a salmon swimming up stream, but with such a big retail space and hoards of people coming out clutching bags I couldn’t avoid having a peek and seeing a) what they’d done with the interior and b) what lines they’re carrying.

My UO days date back to the 90s visiting the stores in NYC, particularly the one in Seaport. I would describe it’s early incarnations as a sort of trendy Ikea with clothes. A place for college students to get discount candles, throws etc and inexpensive vintage looking T-Shirts and cool sugary pink Korean pop-culture nic-nacs. When the brand came to the UK and I lived in London, I found myself drifting into the one in Covent Garden and Oxford Street  for a window shop. I understood the market for the stock, but didn’t want to be charged the  inflated U.K prices  for things I’d pick up myself in charity shops and on holiday.  TBH I was staggered at the price hike and rebrand into a self consciously hip fully signed up member of the high street. #avoid.

The company also now own the more sophisticated Anthropologie of which we’ve only one in the UK on Regent Street. The home ware is gorgeous, although the clothes are a tad conservative for my taste, think Boden on acid, Laura Ashley on speed. They also own the clothing label FreePeople which produces divine L.A hippy /West Coast-chic stuff. I think ASOS stock a bit and I like a lot. I’m especially fond of the catalogue photography and aesthetic but have never bought anything as it’s a tad over priced.

But what’s going on with the designer lines in Brighton’s U.O? I saw A.P.C Madras (worship!), Chloe , Vanessa Bruno, t.b.a and Vivienne Westwood on the rails. These are v grown up brands and stocked else where in the city in smaller boutiques in the lanes. Paradoxically the OU Brighton store was totally chokka with under-25s. In fact, on the day I went in I’d say the average age of shopper was 19. Are people getting a lot more pocket money these days?

If want A.P.C I don’t want to buy it from a shop full of local teenagers and be served by yoot with a dreadful A-symmetrical haircut in treggins who know nada about grown-ups fashion. I want to go to the nice small boutique and feel I’m buying a piece that half the student population of Brighton isn’t wearing. What are A.P.C thinking? What are U.O thinking?

I’m sure the store overall will do well as it presents an accessible  and neatly packaged version of the vintage second hand aesthetic that was so popular last year. The trend has truly filtered to the high-street and for the brand, I guess it’s a case of right time right place, but I for one, am very confused about who Urban Outfitters is.

Italian Shoes

You know the book The Shadow of the Wind by Carlos Ruiz Zafón? I love it, no, I freakin adore it. It’s right up there in my top reads along with Lolita, Dracula, Our Man in Havana and something by Jilly Cooper ( under rated genius). Zafón, beautiful, words.

Central to the story is  the ‘cemetery of lost books’, described as

a mysterious labyrinthine repository of books in the underground heart of old Barcelona – watched over by the gruff guardian Isaac
Read more at Suite101: The Cemetery of Forgotten Books of Carlos Ruiz Zafon

I can’t say much more than that with out doing a spoiler.

The other day my love of The Shadow of the Wind lead me to an online conversation in October with 2 friends who live abroad. One of my friends runs a beautiful book shop in Athens, so one thing lead to another and we were soon arranging to meet up in her city this Novemeber.

Think fashion capital, think Athens? Probably not, but let me tell you it’s phenomenal for designer bargains, flash sales and 2nd hand  stuff.

And, and, and, I was so excited to be taken through the winding streets of Plaka, because, under the shadow of the Acropolis, hidden in a narrow cobbled street, there is a shop which I christened the cemetery of forgotten Italian shoes. A tiny door takes you through to a labyrinth of joining rooms filled with end of line, and from a few seasons ago – it’s magic. I have been. I have chosen.

I’m wondering if there is potential market for a gothic/chick lit hybrid novel?

Old books are nice

Part of the joy of being a researcher is being with books. Forget the kindle, give me a stack of books, a penguin donkey or a musty library room any day.

I had this sent down from The British Library a few weeks ago. The look and feel is so lovely. It includes Peirce’s “What is a sign?”, where the trichotomy of the sign first appeared written up, composed around 1894. Amazing.

The slip inside tells me it’s been taken out 10xs in the last 13 years. No sooner had I picked it up, can you believe it – it got recalled; someone else wants it.

The Essential Peirce. Selected Philosophical Writings Vol II 1893-1919 1998 India University Press

Marks & Spencer Shoes

Look at these beauties. Marks & Spencer £35. That’s right, M&S.
In a word – HOT.

Last week I trawled the shops looking for a pair of black shoes. IMHO Brighton is woefully lacking in shoe shops. OK we’ve all the usual suspects: Office, Aldo, Moda in Pelle, Kurt Geiger, L.K Bennet. This season they are filled with what I can only describe as hooker shoes; if you’re a professional pole dancer there is an abundance of choice. I won’t pay £70-200 on mass produced high street shoes. I’d rather throw another £100 in the pot and buy a well-made designer shoe for life, but alas this is not an option on my budget . So, as I trudged home empty handed, almost seething and seriously considering opening my own shoe shop, I thought I would at least pop into M&S and buy some hold ups. Whilst in hosiery, maybe just maybe I thought … and so I drifted into the shoe section. Ohmydays, congrats to M&S, their collection is full of reasonably priced Jimmy Choo, D&G and Pedro Garcia inspired loveliness.

The next day I dragged a friend in to a branch to show her and we both came out with a pair of these (£25).

Cue facebook update to spread the word, followed by derision and scoffing by my following that M&S are not trendy; I’m just getting older.

M&S have done so well building a myth of sensuality around their food product line and as for the clothing, have enjoyed the Twiggy effect. They now have a new million pound campaign with Mylene Klass, VV Brown, Danni Minogue and Lisa Butcher. The message is glamorous and glossy, yet with connotations of bland Saturday night family entertainment and a Daily Mail readership it’s confusing to me. It’s not fashion. They traverse all demographics offending no one with their middle ground signification; not exactly edgy and definitely not style. And yet M&S have collaborated with the likes of fashionista favourite Patricia Field in the past ( 2008 I think?) and attempted brand synergy through their association with Vogues Fashion night out in September. I do wonder about this? What do regular M&S shoppers make of it all and is the brand mediating confusing mixed messages?

I had a quick scan on the interweb of dreams and found folk think of M&S as the grande dame of the high street. It carries connotations of heritage, britishness, value and quality. All good. However, Per Una is loathed by stylists. I read a few scathing comments about how in the wake of the Madonna effect on the 50+ market M&S should just do away with it. “Oh look there’s Twiggy, aww love her” can’t sustain the brand forever and one camel coloured leather skirt does not a new myth make.

As for me, am I get older? Of course. Less stylish, mais non!  And as Coco Channel once said “style never goes out of fashion”.